An instant classic and our best seller from the start, the George Split Toe Derby in Utah Grain has a story worth sharing—from its origins and leather sourcing to the months-long waiting list.
The split toe derby likely originates from Norway, where fishermen wore it for its sturdy, water-resistant design with minimal seams. The original model featured no heel counter and a skin-stitched toe, leaving only a single stitch line at the back—a potential water entry point.
Our George takes a refined approach, with a heel and raised stitching joining the vamp and upper. Combined with the inside-out toe stitching, this creates a balanced, striking silhouette, especially in grained leather or suede. It is nearly always built on our bespoke Contemporary Almond last, featuring a narrow heel and waist, medium instep, and moderate ball width. Its slightly finer toe and symmetrical shape make it ideal for this model.
This version uses Utah calf leather, tanned exclusively by the renowned Alsacian Tannerie Haas in France. Founded in 1842, six generations have perfected their craft. Locally sourced hides are hand-selected for tight grain, vegetable-tanned, and stuffed with a blend of nine fats and oils. This process gives Utah calf its exceptional suppleness, highly prized by shoe enthusiasts.
Given the selectivity of hides and the lengthy tanning process, it’s no surprise there’s a substantial waiting list. We run four production cycles annually, each nearly sold out before the shoes reach shelves.
If you're interested in owning a pair, the George Split Toe Derby in Ebony Utah grain is available through this link.